Part I: The Judges’ Overview

It’s now a tradition. Once the judges finish evaluating the wines for the Annual Wines of Chile Awards, they present a seminar for members of the local wine community in which they comment on their impressions and discuss a variety of topics pertinent to the industry. This year’s theme, presented by the all-American panel of judges, was “American Pie: How Chile can Increase its Slice of the Market,” was covered on Thursday, January 15, 2009. This is the first of a series of reflections on the seminar.
Kevin Zraly, of Windows on the World

The morning began with an overview of the experience presented by the self-proclaimed “elder statesman” and Windows on the World wine educator Kevin Zraly who had polled his fellow jury members on their impressions formed over the three days of tasting sessions. Commenting that all tolled, the 9 panelists had more than 200 years of tasting experience among them, he said they all agreed that Chilean wines were indeed, “All Ways Surprising.”

The judges rated 446 wines on a 100-point scale in two price ranges-US$12-15.99 and US$16-$30-and came back impressed. A full 62% earned medals: 40 gold (91+ points), 96 silver (87-90 points), and 141 bronze (84-86 points). Some of the wines rated up to 98 points.
With respect to specific varietals and essentially limiting his comments to the 325 red wines in the competition, Zraly noted that the judges considered the Cabernet Sauvignons to be of consistently high quality. They appreciated the improvements made in Merlots, despite their demonization in the best-left-unnamed film. They were impressed by the fruity balance and finesse in the Carménère and particularly liked it in blends. In fact, they felt that many of the red blends were more interesting than single-varietal wines.

What truly stood out for many of the judges was the Syrah, citing the “triumph of a new style of Syrah”-and much to their great surprise, the Malbec. “We all agreed that this was world class wine with a big future ahead of it.” In fact, it was the Odfjell Vineyards 2006 Orzada Organic Malbec that earned the year’s trophy for Best of Show.

Other members of the panel commented on the 112 white wines tasted. Robert Bradshaw, Senior Buyer at Trader Joe’s, said that “Chile has the opportunity to win the hearts and minds of the US consumer with its Sauvignon Blanc” and that it can give any country “a run for its money.”

Pinot Noir also earned its share of kudos. Several of the judges remarked on the impressive Pinots they had tried over the past few days, and 17 appeared on the winners’ list. “Chile is doing Pinot right,” commented Josh Raynolds, of the International Wine Cellar, “I was stunned.”

There we go again… Chile: All Ways Surprising… or maybe that should be Stunning!